What's the best hotel en Trujillo and what is the smoking hot culture on the north coast? Often overshadowed by the dance and music of the Caribbean islands Garifuna dance and music is making a resurgence in both Belize and Honduras. In Belize this has been more regulated with training given to local Garifuna guides. In Honduras this resurgence has happened a bit more organically and seems slightly more authentic - the local population seem to be celebrating their culture more than putting on a show for tourists.
I took a long trip to Honduras over the summer, covering the main highlights, Copan Ruins, wildlife parks near La Ceiba and relaxing on the ever beautiful islands of Guanaja and Roatan. This was my second trip to Honduras, so I thought it was time to go off the beaten track a little. When I say off the beaten track, I mean stay in a luxurious private bungalow in Trujillo Bay, but come on, this is the Caribbean, you've got to do it in style!
One thing that attracted me to the north coast was the growing Garifuna towns in the area. The Garifuna culture is a proud one. Descended from both African and Indian roots, the people have celebrated the uniqueness of their music, language, crafts and festivals, while managing to not become insular. I was lucky to come across a small resort called Banana Beach located between Trujillo and the vibrant Santa Fe. It was a great place to explore the expanding nearby towns and still come home to top-notch Caribbean amenities.
The resort also does not make the mistake of isolating itself from the local culture and people. Sitting in the resort bar "The Mystic" you have as much opportunity to hang out with an interesting local from San Antonio as you do an interesting guest from Amsterdam. The locals have made the bar their own and treat it with the respect they are given, no uncomfortable drink demands or elaborate loan requests. This feeling of mutual respect was most present during a fantastic Garifuna party on the last Sunday of my week stay.
The day started off as normal, complete relaxation, with a fine breakfast of homebaked bread - got to love their German chef! I was then told that there would be music and dancing later that day and a good party - Garifuna style! The drummers, dancers and locals started trickling in during the day with the music starting about four - it was definitely worth the wait.
Garifuna music seems to owe a lot to African drum rhythms, it?s incredibly fun to listen to and you cannot help bopping to the beat - even if it's just in your seat! But what I loved most about the experience was the theatre of it. Punta, the most popular Garifuna dance is all about theatre and competition. The drummers start playing and one by one people step into the space in front of them, with spectators forming a loose circle around them. Each dancer tries to out dance those before them, whether solo or in couples. It is competitiveness without a hard edge. Everyone laughs and encourages whichever dancer takes center stage - even when it is a un-rhythmic gringo like me!
So next time you book a Caribbean vacation, consider exploring the rich, vibrant and authentic culture of the Garifuna people. If you fancy doing it from the lap of luxury, check out Banana Beach as well! Viva the hotel en Trujillo!
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